As the price of fuel goes up so does our care for how much go juice our pride any joy consumes every km we travel down the road. But it wasn’t always the case.
Conversations and comparisons about fuel a decade or two ago were more about how many Kms could you get between tanks, not how many litres per 100km you got. This ‘per fill’ figure is of course influenced by not only how economical the engine was, but by the size of the fuel tank.
Given it is much easier (and cheaper) to make a bigger fuel tank than get an engine to use less fuel. Initially, manufacturers (like Toyota) started putting in a larger fuel carrying capacity.
Demand for even greater distances between fill-ups even resulted in the creation of an aftermarket long range fuel tank industry
1000 + Kms a tank. Job done!
To show how this all transpired over time lets look at Landcruiser Fuel tank capacities over time:
- 40 series: 70 litres
- 60 series: 90 litres
- 80 series: 145 litres
- 100 series: 145 litres
- 200 series: 138 litres
Something changed with the 100 series.
You wouldn’t be hard pressed to guess that we started to think a little more about consumption than carrying capacity during the 100 series era. Fuel became more expensive, and more fuel stations were popping up. It made sense.
It’s got so bad that those needing to travel distance in their 4×4 as a daily driver or on long-haul travel (and you’re not a millionaire), the amount your fuel you need to get some A to B is something you can’t ignore.
You’ll have as much influence on fuel efficiency as you’re 4×4 does.
- If you think you’ll get the fuel on the brochure, you are an idiot.This isn’t just limited to owners of 4x4s but I’ve spoken with so many people who are angry after buying a brand new car and it getting much less fuel economy than what were on the tags – I try my best to laugh on the outside. Let’s get it straight these tests done indoors on dynos and try to ‘replicate’ general conditions. It’s governed but as a comparison tool, not an absolute value.
- Your left foot will matter.How hard you hit the accelerator will have a dramatic impact on the fuel you’ll use. Smooth acceleration against dragging everyone at the lights will keep more fuel in the tanks and more cash in your pocket. The more power you have at your disposal, the more dramatic this will be
- The go-slow bits you bolt on will matter.
I’ve written about unsprung weight and rolling mass already but everything else you attached to your 4×4 adds weight, and if it’s bolted to the outside will change the aerodynamics of your 4×4. So things like roof racks can have a huge impact on your fuel efficiency. - The go-slow caravans and boats you drag around will matter.
It goes without saying, but stick a few tonnes of dead weight on the ass end of your 4×4, and it’s going to use more fuel. How much is going to depend on both points 2 and three above as well as the weight of your rear anchor too. - Where you live and travel and when will matter.
Just purely based on where you live (or where you travel) might have a bearing on your fuel efficiency. Somewhere coastal where it’s windy, and you find yourself in a headwind more often than some in the middle of Australia. Climate conditions will change fuel rates. Location impacts consumption comparisons.
All things considered… quoted fuel consumption rates are for comparison not budgeting.
Because these lovely rigs are what I know most about, let’s look at a 100 series Landcruiser as an example:
Petrol 6 Cyl 4.5
- Around town: 20 l/100 km
- On highway 16 l/100 km
- Off-road: 22+ l/100 km
- Towing Something Big: 22+ l/100 km
Petrol 8 Cyl 4.7
- Around town 18 l/100 km
- On Highway 15 l/100 km
- Off-road 20+ l/100 km
- Towing Something Big 20+ l/100 km
Diesel non-turbo
- Around town 16 l/100 km
- On Highway 13 l/100 km
- Off-road 18+ l/100 km
- Towing Something Big: 18+ l/100 km
Diesel turbo
- Around town: 14 l/100 km
- On the highway: 10 l/100 km
- Off-road: 17+ l/100 km
- Towing Something Big: 17+ l/100 km
Comparing that to others…
Marketers know fuel economy matters in the purchase decision of any car, and they will try to mess with your mind… just stick to the facts and the real impact.
Let’s say:
- 4×4 number 1 has an ‘average’ economy of 11L/100KMs
- 4×4 number 2 has an ‘average’ economy of 12L/100KMs
So 4×4 number 1 is more fuel-efficient.
Let’s assume the numbers are accurate and you travel 20,000 Km a year.
- 4×4 number 1 will use 2,200 litres of fuel
- 4×4 number 2 will use 2,400 litres of fuel
You will use 200 litres per year less with 4×4 # 1
200 litres is fuel is around $1.30 a litre at the moment, so you save a huge $260 a year.
Then have a think about:
- Reliability
- Cost of servicing
- Insurance
- Depreciation
- Replacement parts
The variation in what you’ll get with different makes and models in the five things above could be wildly more expensive than $260 a year. So while fuel is a hot topic, it’s sometimes overstated.
Your 4x4s is big heavy and thirsty
Your off-roader will use fuel. Use it for what it was designed for and it will use even more. It’s a given. Hopefully, innovation in alternate fuels and a better economy will continue to flow through to 4x4s but don’t cling to small differences one 4×4 to another when there is much more at play with how much your 4×4 costs you to run each year.
And remember, you’ll have just as much influence on how much fuel you use as your 4×4 does.
Happy off-roading.
Well done.
Yes, the sticker on the windscreen of a new car is for comparison only, not real world fuel economy.All cars are tested under the same conditions and the fuel economy is recorded, this is put on a sticker and used for consumers to compare products. I know of some people who have actually returned better fuel economy figures than the sticker, but most won’t.
I have an Old 105 series 1HZ with an aftermarket turbo on it which lost 200km range (from the total fuel amount of 145l) the day I put a Rhino roof basket on it (went from easily getting 1200km to using the whole lot plus the fumes to get 900-1000km), but the ability to carry bedding and clothing in a rack bag on the roof instead of inside,covering up the fridge vents, is worth the extra fuel I use.
I have a 100 series v8 4.7ltr yes a aussie one will do 20 per 100 km but get a ecu from saudi arabia you get 500+ hp and do 12ltr per 100 km the aussie regulations have de tuned them so much it actually uses more fuel to get alot less hp apparently to save the planet didn’t work i bought a ecu from toyota saudi arabia all factory standard i had mine on a dyno at 583hp and use a lot less fuel plus all the part cost alot cheaper from saudi arabia the ecu cost $200au free shipping brand new one here cost $1600 and will only give you about 300hp Australia has alot to answer too we get ripped off here
I dunno mate, a 2UZ-FE with 583 HP with a $200 chip – and better fuel economy??
There are some higher spec ones you won’t find in Australia that had maybe 50 + HP, but you’re talking big numbers and I’d want to see evidence before I would (or anyone else) believe that.
I guess he forgot to tell you about the twin turbos that went in at the same time as the computer!! haha thats nearly 100kw/l
have to agree, getting anymore than 300hp from the 4.7 engine without significant mods (forced induction, big cams, larger injectors hi flow heads) isn’t going to happened with a change in ECU. One could use a Wolf EMS plugin and play sysyem which has better 3D mapping and still struggle to get beyond 300hp.
Hey mate. Got a link to where i can find some info on this ecu upgrade. Where you purchased it ect.
Do tell
Got proof?
Any chance of posting up a link of where you purchased the ECU from mate?
Would like to know where to get one of these?
Could I get an ecu (what ever that means) for my 105 series 1HZ 4.2Ltr, with an after market turbo?
or because it is after market, is it a waste of time, trying to sort something for my vehicle!
Is there anything else that could be suggested for my vehicle!
The good ol 1HZ doesn’t come with a computer/ECU so it’s not a waste of time, it’s impossible. If you’re looking for more power from a 1hz than a turbo:
Sure there are some crazy HP numbers people get our of 1hz when they rebuild them, but I feel if you want power, buy a 200 series or 70 series V8, or a 100 series petrol. That’s not what a 1hz is all about. I have a very mildly turbo’d 1hz and a 200 series. They are chalk and cheese.
Did you get this ECU from the same place you got your meds mate? Because they are not working…
A last, a comment close to my view. Fuel consumption between similar 4×4’s should be seen as a yearly expense, based on average k’s. If you average say 10,000 k’s pa. Consumption is not an issue. If you average 30,000 k’s pa It might cost you an extra $300 pa to a comparable. An average of 50,000 k’s pa (not the usual) might cost you $500 pa. I would rather the car I want for my purposes, than settle for something less, just to save $400 pa. I’ll stick with my 2001 GXL 100 series. Cheers Chris
Need to take purchase price into that can be up to a $20,000 price difference from petrol to turbo diesel
yep great point. But… along with this you need to consider depreciation differences. So that can be a bit more complex.
Hi Shayne, great article on fuel consumption. well thought out and solid common sense.
I have a 2014 triton (85000km) but am thinking of replacing it with a 100 or 105 series diesel as I have more faith in the reliabilty of that, but v8 petrol 100 series are so cheap smooth and powerful and from your article use less fuel than the 6 cylinder petrol, makes it attractive. I tow a a solid off road camper trailer.
What advice could you give me?
Can the fuel consumption be improved? A new computer chip etc? Also would a racing filter with better airflow.
Give better fuel consumption than the standard air filter.
Thank you, very informative