Disclaimer: I’ll get 5% off an sales made at eDecals though an affiliate partnership.

Standard 4X4 and off-road decals

These pre-designed puppies are extremely cheap and with a wide range of options, colors, sizes and effects, your sure to find something to your liking.

Stripe Decal Kits

Want flames on your 4×4? or maybe something a little more subtle. Either way giving your 4X4 a new set of stripes can have a dramatic effect on the look of your ride.

Rear window murals

Got a plane or clear window on the back of your ute or pick up. These affordable rear window murals might be up your alley.

Custom Design (roll your own decal)

If nothing out of the box suits your needs then why not design your own decal cut. Sure it might cost you a little more, but the results are unique, and just for you.

So there are 4 easy options to add some decal delights to customize your 4X4. Long gone are the days of looking just like every else. If you’ve got some pics to share of your own ride be sure to comment.

The various types of off-road tires

I personally classify 4X4 tires into 4 main categories. No matter what marketing spin they put on it, generally you’ll be able to slot them into one of these.

• A road tire

  
  In most cases this is what will be shod on your 4X4 when it rolls off the factory floor. These style tires are not good for anything more challenging than a dirt driveway. As the name suggests, these tires are designed for driving on the road. So that means you’ll have good traction and a solid shelf life on bitumen – that’s it. They do have their uses though. Perfect you need a secondary set for your daily drive, or if you never intend to get off-road in the first place (towing etc). This road going rubber will be the cheapest too. How do you spot a road tire? Well they will look just like a larger car tire. The tread depth will be minimal, and the gaps between the tread will be fairly thin.

• An all terrain tire

  
  An all terrain tire, sits nicely in the middle between a mud tire and a road tire in terms of benefits. They are the all true rounders of the 4×4 tire world. They will be grippy and pretty quite on the tarmac, and give some pretty impressive results off road. These all terrain tires are also designed to be quite long wearing. The type of tire I recommend to most off-roaders who don’t want the hassle of having to change rubber every time they what to go off road. You’ll discover a large price variance amongst different brands of all terrain rubber, but, as in most cases you’ll get what you pay for. How do you spot an all terrain tire? In most cases it will be written on the side of th tire, making it pretty easy however, the tread depth will be deeper than a round tire and you’ll notice lots of small individual lugs.

• An mud terrain tire

  
  Unless you live life on the extreme (see next tire), for the 4X4 enthusiast, this is the pick of the group. As they are designed specifically for use off road, these mud terrains, will give great traction in the mud, still have a solid surface coverage for grip on rocks, super strong sidewalls, terrific puncture resistance, and of late, some of the premium brands have finally got their act together and made them a harder waring tire. Whilst improvements have been made, these tires have not been made with the bitumen in mind so they won’t performed well on road – good, but not great. Mud terrain tires, look similar to all terrains, except they have deeper tread and much larger lugs.

• An extreme mud terrain tire

  
  These bad boys of the tire world are basically a tractor tire trapped in a 4X4’s body. This extreme mud terrain’s stand out easily and will have big deep lugs. Don’t try to drive these puppies on the road, as they disintegrate quickly and on a wet surface, will be like ice skates. Whilst these tires look the coolest there is miss understanding that these are the best tires for off-road. They will outperform all others when it comes to muddy terrain, but if you spend more time on rocks, the reduced surface coverage of the big spaced lugs, won’t perform as well as the others.

Longevity and Wear

Whatever your circumstance you need to determine what percentage of your tires life will be spent on road. Be realistic about this as you’ll be forking for the wrong tires if you drive on the black top too often. Mud tires will wear a lot quicker on the bitumen than an all terrain and road tire.

• Road 100-80% of the time = Road Tire
• Road 80%-50% of the time = All terrain Tire
• Road 50% – 20% of the time = Mud Terrain Tire
• Road 20% – 0% of the time = Extreme Mud Terrain Tire

Rubber v’s Rim Size

When sizing up your new rubber, make sure you understand the difference between tire size and rim size. 1010 tires as a great article to help you understand what all the size and markings on tires actually mean, so I won’t repeat is here. Aside from the classifications you want to ensure that the tires you buy won’t rub against your guards when they are flexed. As a general rule of thumb, a 2 inch (50mm) lifted truck, you’ll get away with 33 inch rubber, you’ll need a 5 inch lift to fit 35’s (although it would be close) and so on. You’ll very quickly destroy your new rubber if they rub on wheel well/

Likely hood of a puncture

This is what separates the men from the boys when it comes to tires. Cheaper tires will have a greater tendency to puncture, and for those of you who 4X4 often, you will know how much of a pain in the butt it is to change a tire off road. As I’ve said so many times before, this is where you get what you pay for, and for the sake of $20 extra per tire, it’s worth it.

Consider a 2nd Spare

If the budget allows for it, consider having a second spare, particularly if your attempting to travel long distances off road. Nothing puts a dampener on your trip quicker than having to perform a puncture repair on a tire on a hot summers day. That is of course unless you love manual labour. The budget might not allow it, but if it does, then it’s money well spent.

New V’s Second Hand

Without suggesting you take advantage of others misfortune, there a lot of people who buy the wrong size rubber for their car, or have never found the time to get off-road, that create a bargain hunters dream and some huge cash can be found. When looking at a second had set of rubber look for signs of abuse in the forum of gauges, tears, and inconsistent wear. Also grab the manufactures specs on the tread depth and check all 4 tires.

Balancing and Alignment

Mud terrains are especially hard to balance as the deep lugs are near impossible to get perfect. You’re advised to get both your balance done by an off-road specialist. This is even more essential if you truck is lifted. If you’re not sure, ask your local 4X4 store for a recommendation.

Speak to independent experts

Go to any tire shop and they’re going to tell you the stuff they’ve got is the best. Why? Because they want your business. Speak to as many off-road enthusiast as you can before choosing a brand and make sure the advice you get is independant.

Share your thoughts

Feel free to share your thoughts and experiences with on off road tires in the comments below

Now the Hyundai Terracan is not everyones cup of tea, but you’d really struggle to find a better value for money 7-seater 4WD. Slip on a new set of rubber, a suspension kit, a few custom mods, and you’ve got a value for money truck, that can take it right up to the big boys. Jon Chilton tells us more about his Terrain Taming Terry…

Pictures – click to view

 

Owner Profile

Name: Jon Chilton
Nickname: OGJON
Place you call home: Newcastle, NSW, Australia
View Jon’s Full Profile

 

The Rig

• Make: Hyundai
• Model: Terracan SLX V6
Year: 2005
• Color: Maroon

The Mods

• 80 Series 16×7 6 stud alloys
• 32” Wrangler RTS A/Ts
• Custom rock sliders
• Nudge bar
• Nite Stalker spotties
• Custom guards
• 2” Ironman suspension lift
• Integrated rear view mirror/ reverse camera
• Custom draw system

How did the project begin?

My wife and I wanted to get some more clearance for off road and we also wanted to set the 4wd up for touring.

How long has the project taken?

We’ve only had the Terracan for 6 months, but it didn’t take long for the mods to start.

What’s been the mod that’s make the biggest difference?

The bigger tyres gives us good boost in clearance and the rock sliders helped protect the doors and sills. Prior to the sliders we had silly little alloy steps that I destroyed very quickly.

What was your biggest challenge

Saving for the mods (both my wife and I are on a pension) and hunting down a company that did a full suspension kit.

What was your build budget?

We don’t don’t have a specific budget for the mods. If we find we need to do some thing to the 4wd we’ll save for it and get it done.

What’s next?

• Bull bar
• Custom snorkel
• UHF
• Arb air locker up front
• Finish my rock crawler…

Who have you got to thank for the build?

Big thanks to Grant @ TJM Newcatle for tracking down a suspension kit and giving heaps of good advice.

Thanks Jon for taking the time to tell us all about your terry.

With a fresh new set of 35 inch MTR’s, some wicked flex, and multiple hand made mods this is one capable bush track tamer. Graham takes a minute to tell us more about his black beauty.

Pictures – click to view

Owner Profile

Name: Graham Malone
Nickname: Gib
Place you call home: Perth, WA, Australia
Years Driving Off-Road: 2
View Graham’s Full Profile

The Rig

• Make: Toyota
• Model: Landcruiser BJ71
• Year: 1987
• Color: Black

The Mods

• 35×12.5r15 Goodyear Wrangler MTR’s
• Painted ROH rims
• EFS Anti inversion shackle lift
• Sway-bar removal
• Beefed up rear springs
• Custom guards
• Diff relocation (1 inch forward)
• Bunning’s garden edging flares
• Homemade drawer system
• GME UHF with 4.5Db fibreglass aerial
• Custom winch bar with PTO winch
• Spotties
• 24volt to 12volt inverter
• Safari snorkel

How did the project begin?

The truck came with a few bits already fitted, I have added the tyres, the drawers, shackles, and winch bar myself.

How long has the project taken?

The projects been going on for about 6 months so far

What’s been the mod that’s make the biggest difference?

Extended shackles and removed the sway bar, it flex’s great now, and the tyres of course.

What was your biggest challenge

The winch bar as it is the first attempt welding and working with metal.

If you could go back in time, what would you change?

I would have probably got the mid wheel base landcruiser as the short wheel base is a bit of a handful but it is all a learning experience.

What was your build budget?

My budget stretched as far as the purchase of the car. As for modifications they were done on the cheap, making everything myself, installing everything myself, saving up for every modification has been slow though.

What’s next?

Lockers both ends, 2 1/2inch straight through exhaust, better spotties, new converter as I flooded the last one, fit my arb air compressor from my previous car, and new shocks all round. If I win lotto maybe I will chuck in a set of reduction gears.

Who have you got to thank for the build?

Perth4×4.net , Ih8mud.com, and 4wdaction.com.

Thanks Graham for taking the time to tell us all about your terrific 4×4.

With 39 inch rubber slotted under 8 inches of lift, if your wondering what a tuff Ford looks like I think you just found it. Owner Hugh ‘Mav’ Cartwright takes a moment to share more about his Mighty Ford Maverick.

Pictures – click to view

 

Owner Profile

Name: Hugh Cartwright
Nickname: Mav
Place you call Home: Albury, NSW, Australia
Years Driving Off-Road: 11
View Hugh’s Full Profile

 

The Rig

• Make: Ford
• Model: Maverick LWB
• 4.2 6cyl diesel. 5sp manual, manual hubs and shift on fly transfer case
• Year: 1990
• Color: White

The Mods

• 39.5” Interco TSL Super Swampers
• Dual transfer cases
• 4.625:1 diff ratios
• Adjustable panhards front and rear
• 3rds production rocks rod steering link
• Tuff dog heavy duty RTC steering damper
• 3rds production front control billet arms
• DBR slotted brake rotors
• Scalloped gearbox cross member
• 2” body lift
• 6” 4ways spring lift
• Rancho adjustable shocks
• Custom rear sway bar
• Custom rear bar to suit body lift
• Hayman-Reece tow bar
• Swing-away jerry can holder and tyre carrier
• LED lights on rear
• Custom guards to fit the rubber
• Custom made rubber over plastic flares
• Rock lights
• Mirror mounted front rock lights
• Custom rock sliders
• 4 Cibie Oscar lights
• Hot shower system
• Dual batteries
• Engine isolation switch
• Pumped custom front seats
• Engine isolation switch
• Switch panel
• Fire extinguisher
• ½ finished rear drawer system
• Full alloy roof rack
• APE bulbar
• 9000lb PTO winch

How did the project begin?

With a spring lift, then purchase of new 33” tyres. I knew a few people with some big rigs. Eg patrol Ute with 44” tyres and a 40 series with a 454 big block chev and 44’s. I joined the local club and became involved in comps.

How long has the project taken?

The project has been a going for about 8 years on and off. Until 2 years ago it was still my daily driver. Even with 6” springs, 35s and the billet control arms. It has much been trial and error and having time space and money to do the work. I have done all the work myself usually in the home driveway, with some help from friends.

How did you go about the build?

I haven’t set or had a timeline as such. Small projects have had a time frame. But it has been work as I go. I have a goal in mind of how I want the truck to turn out and a wish list and have worked for that.

What’s been the mod that’s make the biggest difference?

Originally the 2” springs made the difference; suspension is always going to be the best modification. I’ve been driving all this time without a locker and the suspension flex is what has kept me going.

What was your biggest challenge

Getting those dam 39’s to stop vibrating and causing the car to wobble. I wanted to be able to drive to the tracks on them and not change tyre when I got there. Travelling at 90km isn’t a big ask?

If you could go back in time, what would you change?

Considering this vehicle was still a daily driver during its build and never off the road any periods of time. I would be considering of a full strip and rebuild, this way it would be easier to reinforce brackets and mounts and wouldn’t have to weld upside down. I am really happy with the way the build up went the way it did.

What was your build budget?

Haven’t really had budgets, more what I could afford and save a lot to be able to afford the pieces. The build up was trial and error and a lot of parts that I haven’t need were sold to others, eg springs, arms, ideas…

What’s next?

Finish drawer system. Put an exo roll cage on and front locker. Maybe a turbo. Work on my GU wagon; give it a spring lift, fit up cargo barrier and find an end to list for that.

Who have you got to thank for the build?

Allan Cox, Ben Truran, Gerry De Ruiter, various websites and forums. People from companies whose brains I have rattled with questions over time. Fineline Automotive Refinishing; (Dan, Khy and Bayden) for the help with the guard work and a place to do some of the things. A very special thank you must to go to my fiancée Donna Venturato, for dealing with me and the hobby.

Thanks Hugh for taking the time to tell us all about your terrific 4×4.

It didn’t take long for the spanners to come out and the mods underway. And the rest, as they say, is history…

Pictures – click to view

 

Owner Profile

Name: Shayne Tilley
Nickname: Tils
Place you call Home: Lilydale, Victoria, Australia
Years Driving Off-Road: 10+
View Shayne’s Full Profile

 

The Rig

• Make: Toyota
• Model: Landcruiser Sahara FJ62
• Year: 1986
• Color: Gun Metal Grey

The Mods

• 3 Inch Suspension Lift
• 2 Inch Body Lift
• 35 Inch Goodyear MTR;s
• Custom Drawer System
• 350ci Chevy Engine Conversion
• Custom Rear Drawers
• ARB Bull Bar
• DBR Slotted Brake Rotors
• SAAS Bucket Seats and Harness
• Front and Rear ARB Air Lockers
• and much much more…

How did the project begin?

I was happy playing around with a pretty standard truck. Then one hot new years eve the piston bearings went bang in the old 3F. So my long term plan for the chevy engine conversion got put on fast forward and the rest just snowballed from there.

How long has the project taken?

It’s still very much a work in progress, but I’ve owned the truck for about three years with most of the work being completed in the last two. I drive the cruiser to work every day so I’ve got to try and limit time off the road… Anything I can’t do in a weekend I tend to leave alone.

How did you go about the build?

To start of I rebuilt all the running gear, this included everything from the shocks, suspension to smaller stuff like new bearings, brake rotors, tie-rod ends, and bushes. From there I moved to the engine. It took quite a while to complete the conversation but I’m extremely happy with the result. Next was the interior, new seats, harness, roller drawers and so on. As I mentioned it’s still a work in progress, but it’s tough enough to hit the bush pretty hard and comfortable enough to drive an hour to work each day.

What’s been the mod that’s make the biggest difference?

I’m sort of split between two major mods. The 35 inch rubber made a huge difference. I’m extremely happy with the MTR’s. Second would be the ARB Lockers. On an old truck with no LSD the difference it makes is massive!

What was your biggest challenge

I’d have to say the engine conversion… No wait.. convincing my fiancee to let me spend the money. Yeah that was a challenge!

If you could go back in time, what would you change?

In hindsight, I would have probably opted for the chevy diesel. Don’t get me wrong, the power of the 350 is awesome but I ending up having to run straight LPG to satisfy the engineer so it’s limited the truck to weekenders rather than long journeys.

What was your build budget?

I’d say around 20K including the cost of the truck.

What’s next?

good question, I’m probably going to need to freshen up the shocks and springs, I’m considering a coil conversion but I’m not convinced it’s the way to go. I also need to fit some sliders and a custom rear step. Lastly a winch is on the agenda, when I can afford it…

If your interested in more information on the chevy conversion it’s available in a separate article

You see the biggest problem with typical compressed cylinders is that to carry the sort of air capacity you’d need on a decent off-road trip you’d lose half your boot space. The difference between a typical compressed air system and the air-up system is the use of CO2 . This gives the same size cylinder about 10 times the normal capacity.

So we’re talking here about a tank (size of a scuba tank), that’s got the power to inflate a 31 inch off-road tyre in 20 seconds, and the capacity to repeat it 30 times. Not bad…

On Air-up’s web site they claim that you can undo 200 wheel nuts, inflate 30 tyres (31 inch), run your lockers, and that it’s got more than enough power to lock beads on a flat tyre. In our own testing we experienced result very close to the stated levels.

They also have a neat set of accessories as a companion to your tank which only makes the unit more attractive. Having said that, it’s not the perfect solution so let’s look at the pro’s and con’s of the Air-up system.

Why it’s worth the money:

• Nothing mechanical is going to let you down

  In my mind this is number one. An electric or belt driven air-compressor has a gazillion more working parts. These working parts create so many more points of failure. It would be fairly safe to say that over time, the reliability of the Air-up system will stand tall against the alternatives.

• Much more power than a mechanical compressor

  It is simply quicker. Not endless, but still super fast. You’re also going to have no trouble locking that bead back onto the rim after a puncture repair. Even on a 35 + inch rim!

• The air jack is a thing of beauty!

  Not essential, but I still love it. As the cylinders got a lot more oomph effortless jacking is possible. I can’t see it being all that useful on rocky or muddy terrain, but when I swap my 35’s for my road tyres, this jack is a beauty. Seriously, if you going to but the cylinder, buy the Jack…

Why you might want to hang onto that compressor a bit longer:

• What happens when you run out of CO2

  A ready supply of CO2’s not all that common in the middle of a forest or a desert, I doubt if it’s readily available in country towns either. So if you’re embarking on a long trip, I’d take the tank as a backup rather than primary source of air. It’s the key difference between a compressor or a tank. one is fast, silent, transportable the other is an endless supply.

• Running Air Lockers, I’m not convinced

  I just can’t seem to back this up with a great deal of fact, but I just don’t like the feeling of locking my diff with the tank. Perhaps because of its silent operation, you don’t get that reminder that your locker is activated or that integrating it with your lockers takes away a little from the units transportability – it just doesn’t work for me.

Summary:

I think this product deserves it place in the off-road tool kit. Although I wouldn’t use it exclusively on a long journey (a backup only). On a weekender where you might only need to inflate your tyres once or twice, it’s going to be well worth the price… The accessories (specially the jack) are well worth considering also.

Cost: AU $568 for the small kit, AU $643 for the large. Air Jack AU $750 and other accessories vary.

Manufacturer: Air-up

Where to buy : Order from the manufacturer

If you have a product you’d like to see reviewed, or are the manufacturer a product you’d like to put up for review please email Shayne@4×4fever.com.

The number on thing I tell people when they ask for advice on buying a used 4X4 is if your asking for advice, then it’s essential you take someone along who knows what they’re looking at. And this doesn’t mean your friends friend the mechanic. It means someone who’s technically minded about 4X4’s.

Why? As there are certain things, as mentioned in the checklist above, that a normal mechanics not going to be looking for. Only a 4X4 enthusiast is going to able to give you the assistance you need.

Enjoy your off-roading!

The 200 series Landcruiser itcks a lot of boxes. Heaps on new technical wizardry, loads of creature comforts, improvements in off-road ability, and lots of choice. Time will be the only measure of if they’ve maintained their rock solid build quality to a level that we’ve all become so accustomed to.

But there are a couple of things I’m still not sure on…

Eats the rough stuff for breakfast

Do I really need to say any more? If you’ve been in a Landcruiser before, you know it’s just going to “work” off road. How’s this for a bag of goodies CRAWL (think auto pilot for 4wding), Downhill Assist Control, a new multi terrain ABS system, a Kinetic Suspension (KDDS), traction control (Sahara only), and Stability Control (Sahara only). Some might say that all this stuff takes away the fun and challenge going off road, and if you’re one of those people, don’t worry, you can turn most of them off, if not – then you’re going to find one the most capable mass produced off road vehicles on the planet.

And what’s more you’re going to leave most of the others in your wake in absolute comfort.

Made by the worlds smartest car manufacturer

Argue all you want, Toyota manufacturing is years ahead of everyone else. They set the standards others in the industry aspire to. Companies are still trying to figure out what Toyota were doing 20 years ago. So what does this mean? Well to me it means quality. It’s a reputation that Toyota are not going to risk, so you can be assured that the unbreakable brand build on years of rock solid Landcruisers over the years will resonate to this model.

Time is going to be the only real great test, but if there was one company to put your faith in, it’s Toyota with their Landcruiser.

She’ll tow, carry a load, and work all day

Now if you’re going to be forking over your hard earned I hope it’s for more that hitting the local shops with the 2.3 children. So that’s going to either be to tow something heavy, get off the beaten track, or go touring over long distantness. You’re going to be surprised how comfortable this big beast is and how hard you can work it. The towing capacity is 3500kg which is nothing out of this world, but hook up a horse float and the real test begins.

Being so big and heavy and having such a big footprint, stability is a non-issue, all the electronics will kick in to level you out anyway, but the biggest bonus is the big V8. Now the diesel has the edge in mid RPM range, but the petrol is more than capable. So that towing in check, what about the long hauls. We’ll Toyota are smart enough to know that these things are going to be driven on the black top more than on the dirt so they’ve ensured that they’ve refined the on road capability as well as the off. Chances are you’re in for you most comfortable ride ever in the 200 series.

Comfort like never before

Seems like a no brainer these days, but the boys at toyota have obvously responded to the top of the towners (BMW, Mercedes) improving their luxury off road models with some creature comforts of their own. There is the keyless entry and engine start, trip computer, the extra two seats out back, leather upholstery, dual zone air conditioning for starters, please of standard and optional air bags and much more…

Seats and mirrors are all electronically adjustable and there is a element of refinement and attention to detail I’ve not seen before in a Landcruiser.

She’s got a hefty price tag

Now this is all in Aussie dollars so it may vary from country to country. Starting at 80K for the base model, and then moving up (to over 100K!). This is edging the Landcruiser closer and closer to Luxury territory and further away from its traditional rivals. The Landcruiser always been “a little more”, but for the extra cash, you got a lot more car. I just wonder if the 80K for the base model has put the price tag just a fraction out of their target markets reach.

The 10K extra for the Diesel is a silly move in my book too. They’re cheaper to run, last longer, more reliable, so the more people talking up their diesel experience the better. But at 10K, I’d say the market will be dominated by the petrol version.

A heavy right foot will cost you

It’s a choice between a V8 or a V8 and with the 200 series coming in at 2.6 tones you’re going to keep the oil companies profitable for some time yet. With petrol prices going through the roof and predictions of worse to come, these things are becoming more of a consideration.

You need to do your maths on what it’s going to cost you to cover the K’s. If you’re comfortable with it, fine, but don’t run into the dealer with a least having thought about what this means to you.

It’s not the most stunning thing

Honestly I’ve got to say the overall look of the new cruiser it not doing it for me. If seems to me that they’ve taken on to many of the Kluger characteristics. Perhaps my expectations were too high, but this new model has lost some of the individuality that’s made the car and icon. Think through the models you’ve seen on the road, and your left with no doubt it’s a Landcruiser. Will this new model achieve that, I’m not sure.

But as always with design, you need to make up your own mind if you like it or not.

Although the exterior gets a big cross from me, the interior is a different story. As I’ve already mentioned, the interior feels a lot more refined the its predecessors, but let’s just hope his refinement won’t fall apart the sight of a rocky road.

In summary

So would I buy one – Absolutely! I’m not sure how comfortable I’d be taking the beast off track if I was to fork out the $80-100K of my own coin. But hey, that’s what their built for. From what we can see so far – the Landcruiser Dynasty will live on, but for just how long is anyone’s guess.