These days new rigs actually come with some pretty decent lighting, right out of the box, so there would be a heap of other mods I’d make before lights. But this is not a ‘why you shouldn’t fit spotties on your rig’ article, so let’s take a closer look at how you can pick the right auxiliary lights for your rig…

What are the benefits of auxiliary lights?

Um, we’ll they allow you to see more in the dark. That’s about it. But at a stretch, give you a backup supply of lights should your main headlights fail.

Where will you mount them?

This will always vary car to car. Dependent of if you’ve got a bulbar, what kind of bulbar, if you have permanently mounted roof racks, what type of rig, too many variables for me to cater for here. Put if I was to put possible locations into a priority list, here’s what I’d say.

• In between your headlights, protected by the top of your bull bar
• Mounted on the front of your roof racks
• Mounted above your bulbar
• Mounted on your front bumper bar

Some may disagree that mounting them on top of your bull bar should be higher in the list, however I consider reducing your vision through the windscreen by putting a set of huge spotties in the way to be a huge no no. Leave that to the competition trucks.

What will fit?

Once you’ve picked the ideal location it’s time to check what will fit. When your measuring your max size, don’t forget to consider depth as well as height and width. You don’t want your $400 spotties being the most extreme front point of your rig. Get em tucked away in your bull bar.

Is bigger better?

Yes, to an extent. A bigger version of a quality set of headlights will most likely perform better. However a medium size quality set, may outperform a huge set of budget lamps. It’s also worth noting that there are different grades of the same size – by the same manufacturers.

Type of beam

There are two main types of beams you’ll see when shopping for lights, pencil and spread. Pencil casts a long thin beam directly to the front of the lights. A spread beam casts a shorter but significantly wider spread of lights. Ideally you’d have two spread either side of one pencil, however rarely do you have the space for three lights, so you may need to stick with one pencil one spread. The illustration below shows the difference light direction of pencil and spread beam headlights.

Light penetration distance

This is really the main measure of the performance of a headlight. But don’t be caught in the marketing hype of the competing manufactures chasing that illusive, where the longest tag. Whilst brand x might claim distance Y, remember it’s on a perfectly clear night, and measuring only the faintest sign of light penetration. I’ve always support manufactures who don’t try to disguise that fact. Again the Hella brand is a good example of that.

Protection

Some lights might come with covers as a part of the package, other’s you’ll need to pay a little more. You’ve got two options when it comes to covers. Clear of not. Clear covers will impact the performance of the lights as it needs to pass through the Perspex, but give you the benefit of not needing to get out of the car when you want to run your extra headlights. It’s also means that your lights are protected at all times, where non clear covers will only protect your lights when they are not being used. Finally, manufactures who don’t offer a clear option, it probably means that they emit too much heat, which will just melt the Perspex. With it you leave your covers on these types of lights, you’ll melt the plastic and pretty much destroy your lights. It’s easier to do than you think. My advice, go with clear if you can.

Durability

Price does not always equal quality. But don’t expect a really really cheap set of lights to last long. Particularly if you’re hitting the mud frequently. A middle of the road model might outperform a premium model, but the cheap and nasties will never last. Quality until will also be more water resistant, if river crossings are in your destiny.

Availability of replacement parts

This is your last consideration, and it’s for the most part it’s about the globes. How easy is it to obtain and fit replacement globes? Check this before you buy. Also, if you go for covers, can you get an extra set of one breaks, or is stolen?

So there you have it, all the factors you need to consider when buying a set of aftermarket lighting for your rig. Enjoy!

Before you jump in – just think for a second about if you really need to install the lift. A body lifts only befit is that it makes room for bigger tyres. It won’t impact suspension travel, articulation – all important to off-road capability. The downside of a body lift is that it will create spaces between your bumper bars and/or bulbar as on most occasions these will be attached to the chassis. It can be a little unsightly and custom bar work can be expensive.

You’re alternative to a body lift is raised suspension. This might be a better first mod to get, a not only does it give extra clearance, but also improves articulation. Yes this is a little more expensive, but perhaps a better place to start. Put in the body lift if you want to go even bigger with the rubber (35 inch etc) .

So if your minds made up that still want the lift, let’s get into it…

First things first you need to buy the blocks. They’ll come in various thicknesses. Installation is simple for up to 2 inches, any bigger, and you’re in for a lot more work (extended steering rods etc). There is also a range of types including metal, rubber, and polyurethane. I’ve always used polyurethane with no complaints.

Second thing you need is extended bolts. Your old chassis bolts just won’t be long enough to deal with the lift. Remove one of your existing bolts and take it to a bolt specialist and ask for ones that X longer. (x being your chosen lift size). Please, please, please use high tensile bolts.. Pay the extra or your body will snap off your chassis when you least expect it.

That’s all the stuff you need. Here’s how you put it in…

• Inspect How Your Body Bolts to Your Chassis Rail

  Get under your car and look for all the mounting points under your car. Be prepared for 8 or so mounting points – make sure you get them all. Once you’ve located the bottom, you need to determine how you car going to access the top. Some of them will be easy, but others you’re going to need to remove carpet and other accessories to gain access.

• Inspect other body to chassis components

  The biggest one here is the steering. Make sure you loosen off the steering arm before you install the lift. Also check for wires, gas lines that may not cope with the extra lift (most standard 4wd’s this wont be a problem

• Undo the body bolts and raise the body of vehicle

  Loosen and remove the bolts on one side of the vehicle. Then raise that side of the vehicle (only the body), enough to slot in your lift blocks. There are many ways to raise the body – my most popular method is to use two high-lift jacks at either end, and raise them simultaneously (you’ll need a friend). Once you’ve created space, slot in the lift blocks, thread the new bolts through and lightly tighten the nuts. Repeat for the other side.

• Tighten and your done.

  With all blcoks in place, tighten all bolts, and don’t forget to tighten your steering rod.

Jobs done – enjoy the extra clearance!

The various types of off-road tires

I personally classify 4X4 tires into 4 main categories. No matter what marketing spin they put on it, generally you’ll be able to slot them into one of these.

• A road tire

  
  In most cases this is what will be shod on your 4X4 when it rolls off the factory floor. These style tires are not good for anything more challenging than a dirt driveway. As the name suggests, these tires are designed for driving on the road. So that means you’ll have good traction and a solid shelf life on bitumen – that’s it. They do have their uses though. Perfect you need a secondary set for your daily drive, or if you never intend to get off-road in the first place (towing etc). This road going rubber will be the cheapest too. How do you spot a road tire? Well they will look just like a larger car tire. The tread depth will be minimal, and the gaps between the tread will be fairly thin.

• An all terrain tire

  
  An all terrain tire, sits nicely in the middle between a mud tire and a road tire in terms of benefits. They are the all true rounders of the 4×4 tire world. They will be grippy and pretty quite on the tarmac, and give some pretty impressive results off road. These all terrain tires are also designed to be quite long wearing. The type of tire I recommend to most off-roaders who don’t want the hassle of having to change rubber every time they what to go off road. You’ll discover a large price variance amongst different brands of all terrain rubber, but, as in most cases you’ll get what you pay for. How do you spot an all terrain tire? In most cases it will be written on the side of th tire, making it pretty easy however, the tread depth will be deeper than a round tire and you’ll notice lots of small individual lugs.

• An mud terrain tire

  
  Unless you live life on the extreme (see next tire), for the 4X4 enthusiast, this is the pick of the group. As they are designed specifically for use off road, these mud terrains, will give great traction in the mud, still have a solid surface coverage for grip on rocks, super strong sidewalls, terrific puncture resistance, and of late, some of the premium brands have finally got their act together and made them a harder waring tire. Whilst improvements have been made, these tires have not been made with the bitumen in mind so they won’t performed well on road – good, but not great. Mud terrain tires, look similar to all terrains, except they have deeper tread and much larger lugs.

• An extreme mud terrain tire

  
  These bad boys of the tire world are basically a tractor tire trapped in a 4X4’s body. This extreme mud terrain’s stand out easily and will have big deep lugs. Don’t try to drive these puppies on the road, as they disintegrate quickly and on a wet surface, will be like ice skates. Whilst these tires look the coolest there is miss understanding that these are the best tires for off-road. They will outperform all others when it comes to muddy terrain, but if you spend more time on rocks, the reduced surface coverage of the big spaced lugs, won’t perform as well as the others.

Longevity and Wear

Whatever your circumstance you need to determine what percentage of your tires life will be spent on road. Be realistic about this as you’ll be forking for the wrong tires if you drive on the black top too often. Mud tires will wear a lot quicker on the bitumen than an all terrain and road tire.

• Road 100-80% of the time = Road Tire
• Road 80%-50% of the time = All terrain Tire
• Road 50% – 20% of the time = Mud Terrain Tire
• Road 20% – 0% of the time = Extreme Mud Terrain Tire

Rubber v’s Rim Size

When sizing up your new rubber, make sure you understand the difference between tire size and rim size. 1010 tires as a great article to help you understand what all the size and markings on tires actually mean, so I won’t repeat is here. Aside from the classifications you want to ensure that the tires you buy won’t rub against your guards when they are flexed. As a general rule of thumb, a 2 inch (50mm) lifted truck, you’ll get away with 33 inch rubber, you’ll need a 5 inch lift to fit 35’s (although it would be close) and so on. You’ll very quickly destroy your new rubber if they rub on wheel well/

Likely hood of a puncture

This is what separates the men from the boys when it comes to tires. Cheaper tires will have a greater tendency to puncture, and for those of you who 4X4 often, you will know how much of a pain in the butt it is to change a tire off road. As I’ve said so many times before, this is where you get what you pay for, and for the sake of $20 extra per tire, it’s worth it.

Consider a 2nd Spare

If the budget allows for it, consider having a second spare, particularly if your attempting to travel long distances off road. Nothing puts a dampener on your trip quicker than having to perform a puncture repair on a tire on a hot summers day. That is of course unless you love manual labour. The budget might not allow it, but if it does, then it’s money well spent.

New V’s Second Hand

Without suggesting you take advantage of others misfortune, there a lot of people who buy the wrong size rubber for their car, or have never found the time to get off-road, that create a bargain hunters dream and some huge cash can be found. When looking at a second had set of rubber look for signs of abuse in the forum of gauges, tears, and inconsistent wear. Also grab the manufactures specs on the tread depth and check all 4 tires.

Balancing and Alignment

Mud terrains are especially hard to balance as the deep lugs are near impossible to get perfect. You’re advised to get both your balance done by an off-road specialist. This is even more essential if you truck is lifted. If you’re not sure, ask your local 4X4 store for a recommendation.

Speak to independent experts

Go to any tire shop and they’re going to tell you the stuff they’ve got is the best. Why? Because they want your business. Speak to as many off-road enthusiast as you can before choosing a brand and make sure the advice you get is independant.

Share your thoughts

Feel free to share your thoughts and experiences with on off road tires in the comments below

Now the Hyundai Terracan is not everyones cup of tea, but you’d really struggle to find a better value for money 7-seater 4WD. Slip on a new set of rubber, a suspension kit, a few custom mods, and you’ve got a value for money truck, that can take it right up to the big boys. Jon Chilton tells us more about his Terrain Taming Terry…

Pictures – click to view

 

Owner Profile

Name: Jon Chilton
Nickname: OGJON
Place you call home: Newcastle, NSW, Australia
View Jon’s Full Profile

 

The Rig

• Make: Hyundai
• Model: Terracan SLX V6
Year: 2005
• Color: Maroon

The Mods

• 80 Series 16×7 6 stud alloys
• 32” Wrangler RTS A/Ts
• Custom rock sliders
• Nudge bar
• Nite Stalker spotties
• Custom guards
• 2” Ironman suspension lift
• Integrated rear view mirror/ reverse camera
• Custom draw system

How did the project begin?

My wife and I wanted to get some more clearance for off road and we also wanted to set the 4wd up for touring.

How long has the project taken?

We’ve only had the Terracan for 6 months, but it didn’t take long for the mods to start.

What’s been the mod that’s make the biggest difference?

The bigger tyres gives us good boost in clearance and the rock sliders helped protect the doors and sills. Prior to the sliders we had silly little alloy steps that I destroyed very quickly.

What was your biggest challenge

Saving for the mods (both my wife and I are on a pension) and hunting down a company that did a full suspension kit.

What was your build budget?

We don’t don’t have a specific budget for the mods. If we find we need to do some thing to the 4wd we’ll save for it and get it done.

What’s next?

• Bull bar
• Custom snorkel
• UHF
• Arb air locker up front
• Finish my rock crawler…

Who have you got to thank for the build?

Big thanks to Grant @ TJM Newcatle for tracking down a suspension kit and giving heaps of good advice.

Thanks Jon for taking the time to tell us all about your terry.

With 39 inch rubber slotted under 8 inches of lift, if your wondering what a tuff Ford looks like I think you just found it. Owner Hugh ‘Mav’ Cartwright takes a moment to share more about his Mighty Ford Maverick.

Pictures – click to view

 

Owner Profile

Name: Hugh Cartwright
Nickname: Mav
Place you call Home: Albury, NSW, Australia
Years Driving Off-Road: 11
View Hugh’s Full Profile

 

The Rig

• Make: Ford
• Model: Maverick LWB
• 4.2 6cyl diesel. 5sp manual, manual hubs and shift on fly transfer case
• Year: 1990
• Color: White

The Mods

• 39.5” Interco TSL Super Swampers
• Dual transfer cases
• 4.625:1 diff ratios
• Adjustable panhards front and rear
• 3rds production rocks rod steering link
• Tuff dog heavy duty RTC steering damper
• 3rds production front control billet arms
• DBR slotted brake rotors
• Scalloped gearbox cross member
• 2” body lift
• 6” 4ways spring lift
• Rancho adjustable shocks
• Custom rear sway bar
• Custom rear bar to suit body lift
• Hayman-Reece tow bar
• Swing-away jerry can holder and tyre carrier
• LED lights on rear
• Custom guards to fit the rubber
• Custom made rubber over plastic flares
• Rock lights
• Mirror mounted front rock lights
• Custom rock sliders
• 4 Cibie Oscar lights
• Hot shower system
• Dual batteries
• Engine isolation switch
• Pumped custom front seats
• Engine isolation switch
• Switch panel
• Fire extinguisher
• ½ finished rear drawer system
• Full alloy roof rack
• APE bulbar
• 9000lb PTO winch

How did the project begin?

With a spring lift, then purchase of new 33” tyres. I knew a few people with some big rigs. Eg patrol Ute with 44” tyres and a 40 series with a 454 big block chev and 44’s. I joined the local club and became involved in comps.

How long has the project taken?

The project has been a going for about 8 years on and off. Until 2 years ago it was still my daily driver. Even with 6” springs, 35s and the billet control arms. It has much been trial and error and having time space and money to do the work. I have done all the work myself usually in the home driveway, with some help from friends.

How did you go about the build?

I haven’t set or had a timeline as such. Small projects have had a time frame. But it has been work as I go. I have a goal in mind of how I want the truck to turn out and a wish list and have worked for that.

What’s been the mod that’s make the biggest difference?

Originally the 2” springs made the difference; suspension is always going to be the best modification. I’ve been driving all this time without a locker and the suspension flex is what has kept me going.

What was your biggest challenge

Getting those dam 39’s to stop vibrating and causing the car to wobble. I wanted to be able to drive to the tracks on them and not change tyre when I got there. Travelling at 90km isn’t a big ask?

If you could go back in time, what would you change?

Considering this vehicle was still a daily driver during its build and never off the road any periods of time. I would be considering of a full strip and rebuild, this way it would be easier to reinforce brackets and mounts and wouldn’t have to weld upside down. I am really happy with the way the build up went the way it did.

What was your build budget?

Haven’t really had budgets, more what I could afford and save a lot to be able to afford the pieces. The build up was trial and error and a lot of parts that I haven’t need were sold to others, eg springs, arms, ideas…

What’s next?

Finish drawer system. Put an exo roll cage on and front locker. Maybe a turbo. Work on my GU wagon; give it a spring lift, fit up cargo barrier and find an end to list for that.

Who have you got to thank for the build?

Allan Cox, Ben Truran, Gerry De Ruiter, various websites and forums. People from companies whose brains I have rattled with questions over time. Fineline Automotive Refinishing; (Dan, Khy and Bayden) for the help with the guard work and a place to do some of the things. A very special thank you must to go to my fiancée Donna Venturato, for dealing with me and the hobby.

Thanks Hugh for taking the time to tell us all about your terrific 4×4.

Make no mistake this is not a weekend task. It takes commitment and a certain technical competency but with a little grit and determination you can end up with a truck, that leaves those sports cars for dead and is so so much fun in the bush!

Where it all began

Now every country has its transportation icons. Cars that maintain a reputation that sticks like glue for what seems an eternity. These are normally for a specific trait, sometimes good and sometimes bad, whether they actually have it or not. Growing up it for me it was the Landcruiser.

When the team at Toyota first thought up the Landcruiser I don’t think they ever dreamed it would become the institution to Australia that it is today. If you did a poll (and I might one day), and asked Australians to tell you the first two words that come to mind when you think of a Landcruiser, I’m certain in most cases you’d get ‘tough’ and ‘reliable’.

I’d hate to think of how many millions in marketing budgets have been spent by competitors trying to that earn that tag, and, what’s more, I don’t think the latest to roll off the Toyota factory actually deserves it.

Back in the day when my then un-broken family holiday was travelling around the Australian outback, or forging our way through mountains and mud we had no choice but to do it with the safety of the un-breakable Toyota.

Now let me think.. There was the yellow diesel 40 series, the diesel troopy, the white petrol 60 series, the brown Sahara turbo diesel and a handful of other cruisers that adorned the driveway of the place I called home.

Learning to drive, I thought all cars needed the glow plugs of a diesel to warn up before starting and a timer to cool her down before the engine shut off. Oh to be young and innocent once again..

So cometh my 18th birthday, my new drivers licence, a smile, and high hopes, I flicked through the classifieds, looked in my wallet, and somewhat deflated realised it would be sometime before I could call a Landcruiser my own…

Life went on and I owned a Camira, a couple of Commodores, a Toyota Hi-Lux, and finally a Chevrolet Camaro. When an ‘offer I couldn’t refuse’ arrived for the Camaro it was time, I was going back to my childhood and buying a Cruiser.

Now to be honest, I could have afforded a newish cruiser, and trust me that’s what my fiancée Justine wanted, but I just couldn’t step away from the 60 series. It was the car I learnt to drive in, the car that never let us down in the bush. Never did I stop to consider that we might have made 1 or 2 technical advances since the 80’s..so off I went and bought a 1986 Gun Metal Grey petrol Toyota Landcruiser…

Hot Day + Worn Bearings = Blown Bottom End

It’s mine and I love it and everything is exactly how I remembered it. The girl seems happy, and it’s off to the bush we go..

12 months and a whole lot of modifications later, we’re off to celebrate New Years Eve at the man from snowy rivers hut. Half way there, temp gauge a little high, further… a little higher. Okay time to stop now, let her cool down; it’s a hot day so there’s nothing to worry about.

Okay were back to a normal temperature, almost there, temp gauge on the rise again… then…. BANG! New Years Eve ends in a Tow Truck ride, a night in a crappy motel and a blown bottom end. Not the best way to welcome in the New Year.

Looking at about $1000 worth of repairs, I could have got it fixed, but not when your staring down the barrel of a the power of a Chevrolet Camaro in a truck purpose built for the bush.. So exit the straight six and enter the pushrod power of a small block Chev.

Now I’m not a mechanic, nor are my brothers, sisters, mother or father, but what I am is a tinkerer. I’ve changed transmissions, wired in stereos, redone interiors, changed engines, but all based on basic knowledge, doing my research and finding my way though as I go.

People who don’t understand why I don’t just pay someone to do it for me, need to understand that it’s my hobby. I like taking 5 hours to do a job that a mechanic could do in 1. Why? Because it’s a sense of achievement and I always lean something new in every task.

Through this project I was not on my own. The pit crew consisted of the following:

• Father-in-Law: well not technically the father in law yet, but close enough. He owns a Chev C20 Fleetside Truck that would make any owner proud. Easily bribed with free beer meticulous in every detail I lost count of the hours he put in to this project.
• Father: The man who knows everyone. If there’s a discount or a cheap part to be found, he knows where to get it and being from the good side of the law, knows a thing or two about the legal requirements for registration.
• The Fiancée: Honoured here not so much for pure work with the spanner, but for not getting to upset when I dragged grease through the house, took up the whole garage or feed her father so much beer, she had to drive him home.
• The Welder: The expert boiler maker/farmer/ex-cop, a vital cog in the production machine.. Without him I would never have known that an upward weld was stronger than a downward one.
• The Engineer: I called this guy the boss. He decides whether you can take your car back on the road or not. I’m not sure if it’s the same in your state, but they don’t hand out tickets to certify modifications allthe much, so they treasure their licence and rule with an Iron fist.

Research and get 5 different answers to the same question

With the team in place and the Cruiser in the garage, the planning stage commenced.

Essential things to think about before you start

There is no one way to complete this conversion. Much depends on if you’re starting with a diesel or petrol, you want to use Toyota or Chevy accessories, where you want to place your engine, what sort of engine you want to use. Some of decisions better made before you start are:

• Engine Accessories:

  I’m talking about alternator, power steering pumps, air conditioning compressors etc and you’ve really got two options. You can use your Toyota accessories and you’ll need to fabricate or buy brackets to fit your chev block, or you can use chev accessories and you’ll need to modify you’re wiring and hose fittings to suit the Toyota connections. I went with chev accessories as they’re cheaper to replace and the brackets are a lot tidier.

• Manual or Auto

  You can get bell housing adapters to suit the Toyota manual or auto transmission, however if autos what your after I’d go for a turbo 700 GM gearbox and get the adapter to add the transfer case – you might want to get an expert to do this. I went with a fresh 5-speed manual Toyota box. Be aware, your current transmission is not built for to the torque of the chev so a dodgy unit will fail pretty quickly.

• Other Accessories

  Don’t forget about gauges, the only gauge that’s not transferrable is the tacho. I managed to fit a mall tacho in the existing hole, however most people do larger external style tacho. You might need to get adapters for your temperature and oil pressure sensors as well.

• Engine Location

  The kits you can but, result in you being able to use your stock transmission cross-member. I chose to move the position a little forward, to get the fan closer to the radiator and balance the weight a little. This resulted in a custom cross member and custom front and rear tail shafts.

• Diesel or Petrol

  Make sure you get the kit to suit. The transmission cross member is further back in the diesel model so you can find yourself in all sorts of trouble with the wrong kit. This also would a custom cross-member and new tail shafts.

• Wiring

  I thought I did a good job but taking pictures making notes and tagging all wires is super important. See the section on ‘don’t make the same mistakes I did’.

• Lifting

  You do these things at your own peril. However you must plan for safely moving around items that weigh over a tonne. I did it with some scaffolding and a pulley system. I’ve also got a few sets of jack stands, trolley jacks and an engine stands.. They all got used frequently.

• Running Gear and exhaust

  Diffs, transmission, transfer case are all going to be in for a bit of a fight with the tourque of a Chevy engine. Don’t be surpised if you blow a diff or two if your unit is getting old. Its just the risk you run with more power. A reco unit will hold up pretty well.. Don’t forget these trucks a pretty tough.

• EPA and Certification

  Now this applies to only people in Victoria Australia and I can only say this is fact as of today (date). To legally drive this car you must notify Vic Roads. For Vic Roads to accept the modification it must have and engineer’s certification. This is obtained from a Vic Roads accredited engineer. Your best bet is to touch base with an engineer in your area. Talk to him about what your wanting to do (some won’t accept you doing it yourself), and generally involve him from day one. A list of engineers can be found at the end. EPA these days is an important factor in your conversion and the rule is simple. If your using an engine thats newer than the car then you’re okay, but you’ve then got all the smog stuff to install if it’s older than the car then you’ve got to run it on straight LPG. That’s what I did.

The Essential Parts to do your conversion:

• The engine – I’d suggest a fresh 4 bolt chev with a solid bottom end and plenty of torque rather than high horsepower
• Transmission adapter or transfer case adapter (if your running a chev transmission)
• Chev to Toyota Engine Mounts
• A new exhaust
• Accessory adapter kit (or use chev accessories)

Steps to a 350 Chev in your Landcruiser

This is not a step-by-step, more the general procedure I followed to do my conversion. Remember, there are a lot of variables that will slightly alter what you may need to do.

• Remove your bulbar, grill and radiator, battery(s), disconnect any wiring, hoses connected to your engine.
• Remove your tail shafts, clutch slave cylinders (if required), Speedo cable and gear shift knobs
• Remove the gear shift cover plate (under your carpet)
• Remove your exhaust system
• You should now have nothing other than supports connected to your transmission and engine.
• Supporting your transmission remove the transmission cross member
• Secure your engine hoist (or whatever you’re using to safely remove the engine).
• Take up the tension and disconnect the engine mounts.
• Carefully remove the engine and transmission from the car and put somewhere securely.
• Detach the transmission from the engine
• Following the instructions with the bell housing kit, attach the transmission flywheel and clutch to your new engine using the bell housing adapter.
• Grind off your old engine mounts; make sure you do this cleanly, as engineers don’t like deep gouges in chassis rails.
• With your engine out, tidy up your engine bay. There will be items you won’t need depending on your accessory choice (Coils, voltage regulators etc) .
• Get all your hoses and wires in place for the new engine. Air con compressors, power steering pumps, alternators etc are all reversed if you’re using Chevy accessories (which I did).
• Run any new wires you may need from your console – (i.e. new tacho)
• Position your new engine in place in the same manner you pulled out your old engine.
• If your able and opting to use your existing cross member then re-attach the transmission cross member.
• If not then position your engine to the desired spot, then have your custom transmission cross-member made and install it.
• Position and clamp your new engine mounts in place. If your welding them in weld them, if your bolting bolt them
• Connect your engine to your engine mounts
• Disconnect your hoist and your engine and transmission should be in place
• Take a deep breath as the easy parts done
• Start with your tail shafts if you’ve used the standard cross member then your old ones will do. If it’s custom, then you’ll need custom front and back shafts.
• Reconnect your Speedo, clutch slave cylinder etc
• Start one by one connecting all your hoses and wires to your new engine and accessories. This is where your preparation is important and where each installation will differ from the next.
• Put you radiator, battery and front back in and you should be ready to fire her up.
• All connected and all going to plan you should be able to take it for a test drive.
• Fix up any bugs (there will be some) and get it down to your engineer; get him to give it the thumbs up and your good to go…

Remember, this probably all sounds easy, but I’ve not gone into explicit detail on many aspects that each take a day or more to do. This is not a weekend Job.

Don’t make the same mistakes I did

Everything’s good in hindsight and these are some of the things I would have done differently if I was to do the conversion for the first time again.

• It’s essential that you start with a reconditioned, reliable, high torque at low RPM engine with a super strong bottom end. You can buy them new out of the box for next to nothing these days or there are plenty of 2nd hand engines you can get rebuilt. It will save hours of pain later.
• Before you cut any wire, take photos, make notes and tag the wire. I thought I’d done a pretty good job of this, but from experience, it will pay off big time if you’re very meticulous.
• Replace any weak accessories whilst the engine is out. This means get your radiator reco’d, alternator checked, transmission and transfer case serviced, and anything else that’s needed. Don’t forget, you’re playing around with a 20+ year old car.
• It’s an old one, but as with any customisation, figure out your budget then double it. It might come out cheaper, but at least understand your worst case scenario.
• Unless you have to, use new parts whenever you can. I used a heap of second hand parts because I had to, and whilst I made do, it would have been a lot easier to complete it with new parts.
• Give yourself lots of space in two ways. Get your engine bay as clean as possible. The whole front of a Landcruiser is pretty easy to remove so get that crap out of the way. The second is to make sure you’ve got space to store your engine and the 1,000 other bits you have off the car at any given moment
• Give yourself lots of time. Don’t think you’re going to get this done it a weekend. Whilst the task seems and is very simple, there is going to be hurdles that will stand in your way.

Useful research

Now there’s not a great deal out there in terms of research. Marks adapters is a good start, plus you’ll want to grab a good repair manual for your cruiser. Whilst your at it, you might want to grab a good chevy engine repair manual at the same time. You should also consider identifying your local engineer (should you need to) before you start. From that – find a good toyota forum as well as a chev forum. You’d be surprised just how smart, and how quick you’ll get a response to your questions at some of these places.

Happy to help and welcome comments

So you’ve got to the end of my experiences in putting a chev engine in my Landcruiser. It really was a lot of work, but I think well worth it. I’ve tried to re-enforce that there are going to be variables if your considering this for yourself and I’m happy to answer and questions you might have.