Any avid off-road driver will have a barrage of weapons in their recovery arsenal. The one you’re going to use the most is your snatch strap. It’s a recovery tool you don’t want to leave home without.

What is a snatch strap?

Think of a snatch strap is a heavy duty elastic band, it’s made from a special webbing that’s design to stretch like an elastic band when put under load. When the recovery vehicle pulls on the strap it extents then contracts giving greater pulling force than a non-extendable tow rope.

Even a small 4×4 can extricate an off-road beast from a sticky situation using the extra force of elasticity.

There so many different snatch straps on the market in rainbow of colors, brands and importantly price. Your most expensive snatch strap might set you back about $100, while you can pick up a Cheepie for about $30.

Normally I’m all about saving a few pennies, but in the case of a snatch, pay the extra $70. It’s something you’ll use again and again and you want it to last. I’ve just picked up up a brand new ARB snatch, after using my old one without issue problem for nearly 15 years.

How to use a snatch strap

• Finding the right attachments on the bogged and recovery vehicle.

  
  Most snatch straps have a loop at each end, which you use to connect to your vehicle. Ideally you’ll use a recovery hook or alternatively you can use the pin of a Hayman and Reece style tow bar. Don’t under any circumstances attach the strap via a shackle to the bull bar or tow ball. In both instances you run the risk of a heavy steel projectile flying through the air at a considerable pace. It’s either going to take out the recovery vehicle or at worst innocent bystanders.

  As a general rule, you want to ensure that the strap is attached directly to the chassis of the vehicle. Before you go off-road take the time to locate the recovery points on your vehicle. There are plenty of aftermarket add-ons if your current setup is inadequate.

• Position the recovery vehicle

  
  Try to position the recovery vehicle about 1-2 meters closer to the bogged vehicle than the length of the strap. You’ll need to make sure that the recovery vehicle has somewhere to go once the extraction commences. Connect the strap to both vehicles and position the strap in an ‘S’ pattern. This ensures that there are no kinks when the slack in the strap is taken up by the recovery vehicle.

• Get bystanders out of harms way

  Ensure all bystanders are either in vehicles or at a distance that is greater than the over length of the strap. If something does break, with the forces being applied, will be like a steel missile that could inflict serious damage.

  Nothing will sour your 4×4 trip more than a visit to the hospital.

• Smooth take off

  
  Okay your ready to start the recover. Ensure both vehicles are running and if possible select 2nd gear in low range. For manual cars, the bogged vehicle will need to have the clutch in. If your in the recovery vehicle smoothly accelerate, don’t overdo it, a nice moderate pace is all you need. You’re going to feel two things. The point where the slack is taken up and the strap begins to stretch then point with the strap begins to contract. At this point, you should see the bogged vehicle start to move. If momentum is gained, continue to move forward at a constant pace.If you’re in the bogged vehicle, when you feel your car moving, start to slowly apply acceleration to assist in the extraction. Don’t accelerate to hard or you’ll wheel spin or run up the back of the recovery vehicle. Let them, and the strap, do all the work.

• If at first you don’t succeed, try again

  You might find that starting at a conservative speed isn’t enough. That’s fine, just get the recovery vehicle to slowly increase the pace, until you reach the point where enough force is applied. You’ll find that once you get more failure with using the strap, you’ll know just how much speed you’ll need. If you still have trouble, try laying some sticks in front of the bogged vehicle to aid in extra traction, or take another look at your extraction angle.

• Connecting two straps together

  There is a right way and a REALLY wrong way to do this.
  Simply follow the pictures below. Don’t ever use a shackle to connect them

  

In Summary…

So there you have it. Recovery with a snatch strap is simple and easy. With a little practice it’s going to become your greatest friend in your recovery kit.

7 Responses to “Using a Snatch Strap in 4×4 Recovery”

• August 5th, 2008 rockyroad:

  Why did you choose the ARB over other models

• August 5th, 2008 Shayne:

  Out of the top brands there is not a whole lot separating them. I chose the ARB brand as my old snatch (the blue one) lasted me 15 years. If the new one gets 1/2 that I’ll be happy.

• September 18th, 2008 Huge 'Mav':

  Can’t go past safety.
  A good safety measure also is to put some sort of damper over the strap, like a recovery blanket, heavy jacket or bag, so if there is a breakage then it will slow any potential projectiles down and lessen the damage.

• September 18th, 2008 Huge 'Mav':

  Another joining method is to put one eye through other and insert a magazine into the eye. This takes up the pressure of two straps and isn’t heavy or won’t snap like a branch.

• September 24th, 2008 Shayne:

  yeah good points Mav

• December 3rd, 2008 Huge 'Mav':

  Shayne,
  I’ve had a recent experience where the factory nissan and an aftermarket recovery hooks have snapped clean off and practically bend back straight respectively while using a snatch strap.
  NOT pulled through the chassis due to lack of web plates or re-inforcing, but snapped along the hook part itself. The mounting still attached.
  I’ll email in the photos.

• December 3rd, 2008 Shayne:

  The factory hooks I can understand, but I’m keen to see the rating of the aftermarket hooks. Send me through the photo’s and I’ll put them up.

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